As a young man, Rembrandt was reluctant to travel outside his native Holland. All the important pictures were already there, he argued. So why leave? In Amsterdam, the city where he made and lost his fortune as a painter in the 1600s, you can see his point. The “Venice of the North” is a town with a museum for everything. There’s an institution each for tulips, tattoos, cats and Dutch cheese; there’s one for sex and another for fluorescent rocks. The heavy-hitters occupy Museumplein, just off the city’s Vondelpark. In the summertime, locals and tourists alike ride their bikes through the arches of the Rijksmuseum toward the Van Gogh Museum,